Landscape Tips
Fireblight spotted on some Lakepoint trees
Several Bradford Pears and Callery Pear trees showed signs of fireblight this summer. This condition can eventually kill a tree but you may be able to save infected trees through careful pruning. Here are the trees most commonly affected:Host Plants: Apple, flowering crabapple, pear, ornamental pear, firethorn, hawthorn, cotoneaster, quince, mountain ash.
Description: Fireblight affects a wide range of rosaceous plants including apple, flowering crab, pear, firethorn, hawthorn, cotoneaster, quince and mountain ash. Although fireblight can be a devastating disease, it is not as common in Kansas as scab and cedar-apple rust.
Symptoms of fireblight are most noticeable in the spring on blossoms and succulent new growth. Infected blossoms become water-soaked and turn dark-green or brown. Young, infected shoots rapidly wilt as if scorched by fire. The terminal end of the diseased shoot becomes hooked and is commonly referred to as a shepherd's crook.
During wet weather, small droplets of amber-colored ooze containing millions of bacteria can be seen leaking from infected tissue. After initial infection of the shoots, the bacterium may move long distances within the living tissue and kill large portions of the tree. Infected areas of the bark on branches and trunks become slightly depressed and darker in color than surrounding healthy bark. When the outer bark is peeled away, the inner tissues appear red and water-soaked.
The bacteria overwinter in dead portions of the trunk or scaffold branches called holdover cankers. During wet weather in the spring, bacteria ooze from canker margins in gelatinous strands. The bacteria in the strands are splashed to flowers by rainfall or carried to the flowers by insects. The bacteria enter through natural openings in the floral parts. Infection is favored by wet weather and temperatures between 65 and 86 F. Honeybees visiting diseased flowers become contaminated with the bacteria and spread them to adjacent healthy flowers. Shoot infection may also occur at wounds caused by pruning cuts or hail injury.
Recommendations: Several cultural practices will reduce or prevent the occurrence of fireblight on both apple and flowering crab. During the winter, remove all dead shoots, infected spurs, and larger holdover cankers which harbor the fireblight bacterium.
Pruning cuts should be made at least 6 inches below the margin of dead tissue. Pruning tools should be disinfected in a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) or in a 70% ethanol solution. Household bleach is corrosive, so pruning tools should be cleaned thoroughly and oiled after use.
During the summer, periodically inspect the trees for symptoms of fireblight. Diseased areas may be pruned out during the summer provided a few precautions are taken. Never prune during wet weather. Pruning cuts in the summer should be made 8-10 inches below diseased tissue, and pruning tools should be disinfected between each cut.
Fireblight is most severe on trees and shrubs which have an abundance of succulent shoot growth. Avoid over-fertilization, fertilizing late in the growing season, and over pruning, which leads to the formation of numerous adventitious sprouts. Do not plant susceptible cultivars of flowering crab or apples in areas where fireblight has been a problem.
References:
1. Fireblight, University of Missouri Extension, G6020
2. Fire Blight, Colorado State University Extension, no. 2.907
COOL, CLEAR WATER
If trees could talk, I could imagine them singing these lyrics of “Cool, clear water,” an old cowboy song:All day I face
the barren waste
without the taste of water,
cool clear water.
Undoubtedly, grass, shrubs, flowers and vegetables would chime in because Wichita is currently experiencing extreme drought. An exceptional drought rating, which is even “drought-ier” than extreme, is predicted.
Kind of makes you want to rip out your roses and plant a cactus, doesn’t it?
Converting your landscape to a desert isn’t necessary, but you can make the best use of the water you have. Many water-wise suggestions – mostly based on the seven principles of xeriscaping -- came from Spring Gardening Workshop held by the K-State Sedgwick County Extension in early February.
Make a plan
Put it on paper. Focus on drought-resistant plants and sun/shade conditions in your yard. Incorporate your needs, wants, problem areas and areas of potential into the plan. Divide your yard into water usage zones: high (regular watering), moderate (occasional watering) and low (natural rainfall).
Get down and dirty
“Start at ground level,” said Kay Drennen, City of Wichita’s Environmental Specialist for Water Resources Conservation. “Unfortunately, we treat soil like ‘dirt.’ We scrape it, compact it, haul it off."
Be kind to your soil.
Add compost. Aerate. Your soil will return the favor with lower water bills and happier plants. Add three inches of organic matter to your beds yearly, especially to clay soil. Fine clay particles are so tightly packed that water has difficulty penetrating. When the soil does become saturated, it is slow to drain. Compost helps both issues.
Aeration introduces air and water into the soil. After core aeration, every dirt plug on top of your grass represents a hole in your turf. Water fills the holes, allowing for better soil infiltration and reduced runoff.
Pick the right plants
Drought-tolerant plants are as abundant as the days passed without significant rain. For a list of colorful, drought-tolerant trees, evergreens, shrubs, vines, ornamental grasses, ground covers and perennials, go to on the Sedgwick County Extension website at www.sedgwick.ksu.edu and enter the number 18753 in the search box. The name of the publication is Water-wise plants – Trees & Ornamentals for South Central Kansas.
Keep grass thirsty
Wichitans love their lush, cool-season tall fescue grass, but when $700 water bills poured in last summer, love affairs sometimes fizzled. Unfortunately, drought-tolerant alternative grasses have drawbacks. Bermuda is invasive, Zoysia produces thatch and Buffalo Grass has a short green season. You can still save water on fescue though. Water less often. Water deeply. Divide watering sessions into one-inch applications once or twice a week.
Irrigate efficiently
When you water shrubs, moisten the soil 12 inches deep. For annuals, perennials and groundcovers moisten soil six to eight inches deep. One inch of water wets the soil to a depth of six inches. Use drip systems for beds; sprinklers for turf.
Mulch. Save water.
Pine straw and bark, leaves, straw, grass clippings, gravel, newspaper and even fabric can mulch plants. Just do it.
Maintain.
Weeds use water. Get rid of them. Fertilizer = growth = water usage. Don’t fertilize during drought. Avoid pruning.
I’ve barely skimmed the concepts of xeriscaping. Just remember, xeriscaping does not mean “zero-scaping,” with no green or color in sight. Think Flint Hill wildflowers, not Mojave Desert.
Reprinted with permission from the East Wichita News
ROSE ROSETTE RUNS RAMPANT
John Schlegel's roses had a disease called "rose rosette." So did Gerald Morton's roses. And Carolyn Ramsey's. If you have roses in your garden -- any variety of rose -- there's a good chance you have it, too or will have it soon. This disease will not only kill your roses, it will spread to your neighbor's roses, courtesy of an invisible-to-the-naked-eye Eirophyid mite. Infected pruners can also spread the disease. Only roses are affected.There is no cure. Any diseased roses should be dug up, roots included, immediately when you see any of these symptoms:
- rapid stem elongation
- leaf distortion
- leaf reddening
- leaf chlorosis with yellow mosaic patterns
- abnormal narrow leaflets or smaller leaves than normal
- thickened stems premature lateral bud development
- excessive thorn production
- Witch's broom -- multiple stems at ends of branches
In early spring, mites migrate onto developing shoots where females lay eggs. Young mites may move from plantt to plant by attaching to insects. They may also disperse via air currents. The mites usually transmit the disease May through July. Most infecton symptoms appear in July and August. Mite populations are most abundant from June to July and peak in September.
Pruners used on infected roses can transmit the disease to healthy roses. Disinfect the pruners with Lysol before you move from one plant to another.
Although rose rosette appeared back in 1941, it hasn't become a problem until more recently. The popularity of Carpet Roses and Knockout Roses has led to the increase, according to Bob Neier, agent with the Kansas State University Extension office for Sedgwick County.
New roses can be successfully planted in the same spot that a diseased rose once claimed, as long as you are confident that you have removed ALL of the roots from the diseased plant.
Remember, there is no cure. You must remove the entire plant and discard it to prevent infection of healthy roses in your yard and your neighbors.
